Re: Eiki projector tip

From: owen (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Oct 13 2007 - 22:44:37 PDT

Ebay helps here too.

sorry if I appeared unappreciative of anyone's efforts.

On Oct 13, 2007, at 7:44 PM, Steve Polta wrote:

> This is also an issue for other rubber parts, speaking
> specifically about drive belts (and speaking
> specifically about the Eiki 2000-A not not the slim
> line). When San Francisco Cinematheque acquired one of
> these a few years ago, some belts were "missing" which
> we didn't notice but caused a fuse to blow as the
> thing kept overheating (the fan belt was gone). Where
> did it go? A better question: what was this black goo
> inside the machine? Well, turns out, the goo was the
> belt.
> The solution:
> Turns out that these belts are either standardized
> parts or so similar to such that you can just pick 'em
> up and gasket shops. Either bring an old belt (and
> they start cracking on there way to goostate) in and
> they'll give you a new one or use a piece of string
> around the belt path to figure it out.
> In San Francisco I go to a place called Bearing
> Agencies. I don't know quite what they do but I think
> they sell gears and bearings and belts. The don't know
> about projectors and could care less what you do with
> the thing. They sometimes ask, "Are you driving or
> sealing?" They also sometimes are too lazy to type up
> an invoice for a part which costs like $1.25 and just
> say "pay me later."
> Steve Polta
> San Francisco Cinematheque
> --- David Tetzlaff <email suppressed> wrote:
>> Eiki 'Slim Line' 16mm projectors (and perhaps other
>> models as well) adjust
>> focus by means of a knob with a rubber collar on the
>> end of its shaft that
>> engages ribs on the lens barrel.
>> The problem with this is over time, the rubber
>> perishes and ceases to grab
>> the ribs. In some cases is gets brittle and cracks.
>> More often it seems to
>> liquify and turn into a sort of goo. This is
>> dangerous. I am now convinced
>> that just such a piece of goo migrated from the lens
>> into the gate and
>> destroyed a valuable print I projected a couple
>> years ago.
>> I have come up with a method to repair this problem,
>> which takes no
>> special skill, so i thought I'd share.
>> 1. Remove the plastic cover over the lens housing,
>> It just pulls off from
>> the top.
>> 2. Remove the lens housing: three small Phillips
>> head screws, one on top
>> two on bottom.
>> 3. Remove the small screw in the rear slot holding
>> the lens in the housing
>> and remove the lens.
>> 4. On the bottom of the lens housing is a metal
>> bracket attached by two
>> very small Phillips head screws. Back these screws
>> out, but do not totally
>> remove them. The focus knob will now slide out of
>> the housing.
>> 5. Remove whats left of the old collar and clean up
>> any residue on the
>> knob, inside the housing, or on the lens barrel.
>> 6. Obtain some large heat shrink tubing for 14/16
>> gauge wire and 10/12
>> gauge wire. I used a package from harbor Freight
>> Tools, catalog
>> 96024-1VGA, if they don't have
>> a store in your area.
>> 7. Cut two pieces of the smaller tubing to the
>> length of the collar, and
>> also two pieces of the larger tubing.
>> 8. Slide a pice of the smaller tubing (red if its
>> Harbor Freight) onto the
>> end of the focus shaft as far as it will go. Heat it
>> with a kitchen match
>> or range burner from an inch or so away until it
>> shrinks tight onto the
>> shaft.
>> 9. Let it cool, then add another layer of the same
>> size tubing (red). It
>> should fit over the first layer after that one has
>> shrunk. Again, heat to
>> shrink.
>> 10. Add two more layers using the larger (black from
>> Harbor Freight)
>> tubing, again shrinking with heat.
>> 11. This should build out your new plastic collar to
>> just about the
>> diameter of the wider part of the shaft
>> 12. Reinsert the shaft into the lens housing. Line
>> up the slots in the
>> shaft with the two small Phillips screws you losened
>> earlier. Tighten
>> these screws, making sure they go into the slots and
>> do not bind the
>> shaft. The shaft should rotate freely when you turn
>> the knob.
>> 13. put the lens back in the housing. Hopefully your
>> new collar will
>> engage the ribs and rotating the knob will move the
>> lens back and forth.
>> 14. Reassemble the lens housing in reverse of the
>> disassembly above.
>> Hope this helps somebody somewhere keep a projector
>> in service.
> __________________________________________________________________
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at
>> <email suppressed>.
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
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> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.

For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.