Re: Eiki projector tip

From: Steve Polta (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Oct 13 2007 - 16:44:02 PDT

This is also an issue for other rubber parts, speaking
specifically about drive belts (and speaking
specifically about the Eiki 2000-A not not the slim
line). When San Francisco Cinematheque acquired one of
these a few years ago, some belts were "missing" which
we didn't notice but caused a fuse to blow as the
thing kept overheating (the fan belt was gone). Where
did it go? A better question: what was this black goo
inside the machine? Well, turns out, the goo was the

The solution:
Turns out that these belts are either standardized
parts or so similar to such that you can just pick 'em
up and gasket shops. Either bring an old belt (and
they start cracking on there way to goostate) in and
they'll give you a new one or use a piece of string
around the belt path to figure it out.

In San Francisco I go to a place called Bearing
Agencies. I don't know quite what they do but I think
they sell gears and bearings and belts. The don't know
about projectors and could care less what you do with
the thing. They sometimes ask, "Are you driving or
sealing?" They also sometimes are too lazy to type up
an invoice for a part which costs like $1.25 and just
say "pay me later."

Steve Polta
San Francisco Cinematheque

--- David Tetzlaff <email suppressed> wrote:

> Eiki 'Slim Line' 16mm projectors (and perhaps other
> models as well) adjust
> focus by means of a knob with a rubber collar on the
> end of its shaft that
> engages ribs on the lens barrel.
> The problem with this is over time, the rubber
> perishes and ceases to grab
> the ribs. In some cases is gets brittle and cracks.
> More often it seems to
> liquify and turn into a sort of goo. This is
> dangerous. I am now convinced
> that just such a piece of goo migrated from the lens
> into the gate and
> destroyed a valuable print I projected a couple
> years ago.
> I have come up with a method to repair this problem,
> which takes no
> special skill, so i thought I'd share.
> 1. Remove the plastic cover over the lens housing,
> It just pulls off from
> the top.
> 2. Remove the lens housing: three small Phillips
> head screws, one on top
> two on bottom.
> 3. Remove the small screw in the rear slot holding
> the lens in the housing
> and remove the lens.
> 4. On the bottom of the lens housing is a metal
> bracket attached by two
> very small Phillips head screws. Back these screws
> out, but do not totally
> remove them. The focus knob will now slide out of
> the housing.
> 5. Remove whats left of the old collar and clean up
> any residue on the
> knob, inside the housing, or on the lens barrel.
> 6. Obtain some large heat shrink tubing for 14/16
> gauge wire and 10/12
> gauge wire. I used a package from harbor Freight
> Tools, catalog
> 96024-1VGA, if they don't have
> a store in your area.
> 7. Cut two pieces of the smaller tubing to the
> length of the collar, and
> also two pieces of the larger tubing.
> 8. Slide a pice of the smaller tubing (red if its
> Harbor Freight) onto the
> end of the focus shaft as far as it will go. Heat it
> with a kitchen match
> or range burner from an inch or so away until it
> shrinks tight onto the
> shaft.
> 9. Let it cool, then add another layer of the same
> size tubing (red). It
> should fit over the first layer after that one has
> shrunk. Again, heat to
> shrink.
> 10. Add two more layers using the larger (black from
> Harbor Freight)
> tubing, again shrinking with heat.
> 11. This should build out your new plastic collar to
> just about the
> diameter of the wider part of the shaft
> 12. Reinsert the shaft into the lens housing. Line
> up the slots in the
> shaft with the two small Phillips screws you losened
> earlier. Tighten
> these screws, making sure they go into the slots and
> do not bind the
> shaft. The shaft should rotate freely when you turn
> the knob.
> 13. put the lens back in the housing. Hopefully your
> new collar will
> engage the ribs and rotating the knob will move the
> lens back and forth.
> 14. Reassemble the lens housing in reverse of the
> disassembly above.
> Hope this helps somebody somewhere keep a projector
> in service.
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at
> <email suppressed>.

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For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.