Re: Hand coloring on 35 mm film

From: Jason Halprin (email suppressed)
Date: Fri Feb 24 2006 - 14:21:56 PST

In terms of a workstation almost any table or desk would do if you
track down a small light box. I believe you can get one at many art
stores for around $30 (here's a link to one:

-Jason Halprin

--- Pablo Marin <email suppressed> wrote:

> Doug,
> from what i read, you´re planing to paint in
> differents colours each of your 7000 frames (not tint
> whole sections with one colour).
> i´ve done some painting on 35mm and had really good
> results with permanent markers. (sharpies are not
> available here, i use Edding 400 and Staedler´s. ) the
> thing is that if you paint directly with your marker
> (the tip onto celluloid) you will not do it quickly
> and things will get messy. in my case, i removed that
> fiber part in which all the ink is store (i don´t know
> the english word for it) and then put it in a jar
> recipient with some liquid alcohol. after you shake it
> enough, you will have some liquid permanent ink. then
> you can apply it to film with any kind of brushes (you
> can get them as small and sharp as you like). alcohol
> based permanent ink dryes completely in about 10-15
> minutes.
> as for setting up a workstation you could check Norman
> Mclaren´s "How To Make Animated Movies Without a
> Camera," included in Russett-Starr´s "Experimental
> Animation: Origins of a New Art".
> good luck and all the best for your operation,
> Pablo Marin
> Buenos Aires.
> --- Doug Williams <email suppressed> wrote:
> > Hello. This is my first post here. I'm writing
> > because I am planning to hand color film which I
> > have never tried before and I was hoping to get the
> > benefit of everyone's experience. I'll be as
> > detailed as possible:
> > I am planning to shoot 2 rolls of black and white
> > 35mm film. Then I will get a work print made and
> > take it home. Then I have to have some surgery and I
> > want to spend my recovery time hand coloring in the
> > parts of the work print which will appear in the
> > final film. Then I will get the colored work print
> > transferred to digital files so I can put it on my
> > computer to finish the editing. I have many
> > questions about the process. First of all does that
> > sound like a reasonable workflow? Does anybody have
> > good suggestions about the mechanics of setting up a
> > workstation to move efficiently through the coloring
> > process while allowing enough time for drying etc.?
> >
> > I want the color to be translucent so that the
> > images will be colored without losing any of the
> > detail of the film. Of course I want it to look as
> > good as it can but I also want to move quickly and
> > efficiently and hopefully without getting cancer
> > from toxins. I will have a lot of recovery time to
> > work with and I'm actually looking forward to it as
> > a sort of therapy but at the same time there will be
> > a LOT of frames to color so I do want to be able to
> > move fast so I can finish it in this lifetime. The
> > finished film I hope will be about 5 minutes long
> > which I believe means I will be coloring a little
> > over 7,000 individual frames of film. I'm up for it
> > as long as it takes but I want to make sure I have a
> > good plan first. I have heard of using food color,
> > water color, stained glass paints, and even
> > sharpies. The sharpies sound like a good option just
> > because it seems quick and non toxic and not too
> > messy. It also seems though that it would be
> > difficult to blend colors much with
> > sharpies or other felt tip pens so you would be
> > pretty much stuck with the colors you can buy. This
> > might be okay with me but it's good to have options.
> > Has anyone used sharpies for hand coloring film? Do
> > they actually work transparently and without
> > smearing? Is there a way to blend them if you want?
> > What is the drying time like? Any other similar but
> > better options for moving fast and getting good
> > results? I have found a little informationin the
> > archives but I really want to hear more about
> > specific techniques and mediums people have tried.
> > Any tips or comments would be greatly appreciated.
> > Thank you very much!
> > -Doug
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> > For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at
> > <email suppressed>.
> >
> >
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