From: Ross Meckfessel (email suppressed)
Date: Thu Apr 01 2010 - 10:02:43 PDT
I've only developed old kodachrome as negative using Dektol cut 1:1. I developed it for about 2:30-3 minutes and got really great images (the film also had a slight tint of some sort, blue? yellow?), and this was Kodachrome that expired in the 60s or 70s.
As for REM-JET, I found it to be much less of an issue on Kodachrome than it is when I've developed color negative. It seemed to me that the backing must have just come off in the developer or wash. Although I did process in buckets rather than a lomo tank, so that probably caused it to scrape off easier.
When doing color negative I usually take the REM-JET off after developing. I use a sponge, passing it from the lomo reel, into the sponge, under a running faucet and into a bucket of water. I've also heard that you can take the REM-JET off before developing by putting the film into a Pre-Bath of Borax, Sodium Sulfate and Sodium Hydroxide, letting it sit for a minute and then running the film between a sponge or your fingers and transferring it to a bucket of water.
Good luck and happy processing!
--- On Thu, 4/1/10, vassily bourikas <email suppressed> wrote:
From: vassily bourikas <email suppressed>
Subject: Re: REM-JET removal
To: email suppressed
Date: Thursday, April 1, 2010, 4:37 AM
Hi Jeffrey,
It really works, we initially freaked out, wondering why the whole film came out black. It is actually a great feeling to see the images appear under your fingers as you go along removing the black coat. We used a bathtub full of water to do it though.
It is important to do it carefully, you could miss some spots if you do not check vigilantly. It did not smear.
What also happens with rem-jet, particularly when doing negatives on 16mm
(as there is more of it) is that it makes your Lomo spirals turn a little grey.
But to our experience this is only cosmetic, we never had problems
using these afterward with ektachrome, b/w reversal or any other rem-jet
free materials.
However if anyone knows another way of doing it, possibly with some solution that gets rid of it before or after, please let us know.
All the best,
Vassily
From: JEFFREY PAULL <email suppressed>
To: email suppressed
Sent: Thu, 1 April, 2010 13:53:15
Subject: REM-JET removal
Greetings, Vassily,
Wow! Thanks for the tip:
I'd have never EVER thought of removing the REM-jet layer AFTER processing!
Ace idea!
Jeffrey Paull
On Wed 31/03/10 19:56 , vassily bourikas email suppressed sent:
> Hello Viktoria, Jeffrey, Ed,
>
>
>
> First of all thank you for bringing up this topics again, matters were not
> really clarified last time both subjects were discussed here a while ago.
>
>
> I hope that more frameworkers will contribute information regarding the
> development of Kodakchrome as b/w reversal or even as b/w negative. I
> appreciate too that it is a beautiful stock but when one lives in Europe it
> is not so easy to post to Kansas. I have relocated to Greece recently
> because of work and with the economic crisis here it is even more difficult
> for most people to shoot film, let alone post it to the US for development.
> And in any case
there are friends here who have really old exposed or
> unexposed Kodakchromes. If I am not mistaken Dwayne's will not process
> cartridges that expired in the previous century.
>
>
> I have not very much to contribute at the moment but if any of you has
> suggestions I do own some relatively fresh 16mm and super8 Kodakchromes
> that I could test these suggestions with and get back to you with the
> results.
>
>
> My first and only attempt so far was unsuccessful. I processed a cartridge
> of Kodakchrome as b/w negative using TMAX and all I got was just a clear
> leader (after removing the rem-jet). Any comments on why this could have
> happened would be very welcome. I did not get even a hint of an image and I
> used two different cameras. That one was
>
>
> As far as rem-jet is concerned I have processed Fujichrome in 3
different
> occasions using E6 and removed the rem-jet afterward. It was not as hard as
> doing it in the dark would be, I guess. I used a silk handkerchief in a
> bathtub full of water, it is a little time consuming but it did not smear
> at all.
>
>
> Looking forward to any info on the subjects and thanks again for bringing
> it up.
>
>
> Vassily Bourikas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 31, 2010, at 11:07 PM, JEFFREY PAULL (address suppressed)
> S.CA> wrote:
>
>
> > Unfortunately, unlike all other colour films,
> Kodachrome brand has its colours added in the Kodachrome chemicals,
> > so there are no colour molecules in the film itself. So
> there's no way to get any colour, regardless of any surprise renditions'
> > even if you
developed it in any brands of E-6 or C-41
> colour kits.
> >
>
> > Kodachrome, because it's assumed to be processed in
> industrial machines on an industrial scale,
> > has a backing or coating made out of carbon "dust" in a
> water-soluable base.
> > The industrial machines clean this off in a way that
> this "paint" doesn't stick to the film as it moves along the process.
> >
>
> > On a personal scale, you'd have to remove this backing,
> in complete blackness, with a small wet rag.
> > And you'd have to do this along the whole long wet
> strip of film without schmeering any of this
> > wet black "paint" on the image.
>
> > It can be done, but you'd have to have some sort of
> set-up and practice (and disappointment and gloppy pictures first)
> > before you got the hand of it.
>
> >
>
> > Maybe somebody else knows easier ways to get rid of
> that black layer that's called a REM-jet layer.
> >
>
> > Jeffrey Paull
>
> >
>
> > On Tue 30/03/10 15:52 , Viktoria schmid vik
> email suppressed sent:
> >> has anyone experience with developing kodachromefilms
> with especially
> >> foma-b/w-chemistry or any other b/w-chemistry?are
> there any nice
> >> effects or will it be just a normal black and white
> film? I know
> >> it's a shame to waste the nice colour-stock, but I
> can't
> >> afford it to send it to Kansas...
>
> >>
> __________________________________________________________________
> >> For info on FrameWorks,
contact Pip Chodorov at .
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
> __________________________________________________________________
> > For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at (address suppressed)
> om>.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
>
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at (address suppressed)
> om>.
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
__________________________________________________________________
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.