Re: super 8 pinholes

From: email suppressed
Date: Wed Feb 24 2010 - 11:10:00 PST

You get a mix of blur and image, specifically when the film stops
moving through the camera.

The cartridge contains simply the film and a pressure plate. Andec
sell a precision steel pressure plate that you put between the film
and the pressure plate in the cartridge, that's said to increase image
stability etc,

Nicky Hamlyn.

On 24 Feb 2010, at 17:06, Roger Beebe wrote:

> I'm confused about this. Since there's no shutter, wouldn't this
> just produce a long blur across each frame? Is there something
> magical in the super 8 cartridge that I don't understand? (In my
> head I always assumed the movement was determined by the pull down
> claw in the camera [with a Maltese cross or some such], but does the
> cartridge itself do more than just advance the film steadily?)
> Anyone?
> Roger
> On Feb 23, 2010, at 10:48 PM, j.l. chouinard wrote:
>> > i have heard of using super 8 by taking a cartridge, placing the
>> pinhole over the film and turning it with a melted pin cap. never
>> did it through. Has anyone on frameworks?
>> >
>> the following info was brought to my attention by lindsey lodhie.
>> _____________________
>> Basic Pinhole Instructions: (please supplement with your own
>> research)
>> Crank should be on the left side w/ the film label on the right.
>> Turn crank clockwise to advance. Each cartridge has 50ft and
>> should release tension when finished.
>> 1 full revolution (one turn of the crank)= 46 frames (approximately)
>> If you were to advance the film at 1 revolution per second, your
>> shutter speed would be 1/46 of a second and projected at 18fps
>> (standard super 8 speed) your footage would appear to be 2.5 times
>> slower than normal speed.
>> If you wish to crank at "normal" speed you should advance at
>> approximately 1/2 revolution per second.
>> Remember that there's no shutter to either mask the motion of the
>> film (producing motion blur) or block out part of the exposure time.
>> Your fps will give you an effective shutter speed of 1/(fps)- for
>> example 50fps will give you a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second.
>> Using an analogue light meter, you should set your dial according
>> to your footcandles as usual, but reference your f-stop first in
>> order to determine your shutter. This is the opposite of how you
>> normally use a light meter. Referencing the washer-fstop guide
>> below, find your fixed aperture and the corresponding
>> shutterspeed. If, for example, your shutter speed says 1/125 of a
>> second, you'll know to crank at a rate of 125 frames per second
>> (about 3 revolutions per second).
>> The easiest subjects to expose will probably be those with extremes
>> of exposure (like a sunlit window in a dark room) because chances
>> are, you'll expose some part of the image semi correctly.
>> Keep in mind that nothing in pinhole filmmaking is exact and you
>> should use this information to give you a good sense of your basic
>> shooting parameters.
>> (Also, if you're interested, you can try making pinhole lenses for
>> the bolex using a similar method.)
>> Aperture Guide:
>> 1 washer= f/3.33
>> 2 washers= f/7.9
>> 3 washers= f/10.59
>> 4 washers= f/15.9
>> 5 washers= f/21.1
>> 6 washers= f/26.5
>> Article from "AfterImage" about pinhole filmmaking:
>> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.

For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.