From: email suppressed
Date: Wed Feb 24 2010 - 11:10:00 PST
You get a mix of blur and image, specifically when the film stops
moving through the camera.
The cartridge contains simply the film and a pressure plate. Andec
sell a precision steel pressure plate that you put between the film
and the pressure plate in the cartridge, that's said to increase image
On 24 Feb 2010, at 17:06, Roger Beebe wrote:
> I'm confused about this. Since there's no shutter, wouldn't this
> just produce a long blur across each frame? Is there something
> magical in the super 8 cartridge that I don't understand? (In my
> head I always assumed the movement was determined by the pull down
> claw in the camera [with a Maltese cross or some such], but does the
> cartridge itself do more than just advance the film steadily?)
> On Feb 23, 2010, at 10:48 PM, j.l. chouinard wrote:
>> > i have heard of using super 8 by taking a cartridge, placing the
>> pinhole over the film and turning it with a melted pin cap. never
>> did it through. Has anyone on frameworks?
>> the following info was brought to my attention by lindsey lodhie.
>> Basic Pinhole Instructions: (please supplement with your own
>> Crank should be on the left side w/ the film label on the right.
>> Turn crank clockwise to advance. Each cartridge has 50ft and
>> should release tension when finished.
>> 1 full revolution (one turn of the crank)= 46 frames (approximately)
>> If you were to advance the film at 1 revolution per second, your
>> shutter speed would be 1/46 of a second and projected at 18fps
>> (standard super 8 speed) your footage would appear to be 2.5 times
>> slower than normal speed.
>> If you wish to crank at "normal" speed you should advance at
>> approximately 1/2 revolution per second.
>> Remember that there's no shutter to either mask the motion of the
>> film (producing motion blur) or block out part of the exposure time.
>> Your fps will give you an effective shutter speed of 1/(fps)- for
>> example 50fps will give you a shutter speed of 1/50 of a second.
>> Using an analogue light meter, you should set your dial according
>> to your footcandles as usual, but reference your f-stop first in
>> order to determine your shutter. This is the opposite of how you
>> normally use a light meter. Referencing the washer-fstop guide
>> below, find your fixed aperture and the corresponding
>> shutterspeed. If, for example, your shutter speed says 1/125 of a
>> second, you'll know to crank at a rate of 125 frames per second
>> (about 3 revolutions per second).
>> The easiest subjects to expose will probably be those with extremes
>> of exposure (like a sunlit window in a dark room) because chances
>> are, you'll expose some part of the image semi correctly.
>> Keep in mind that nothing in pinhole filmmaking is exact and you
>> should use this information to give you a good sense of your basic
>> shooting parameters.
>> (Also, if you're interested, you can try making pinhole lenses for
>> the bolex using a similar method.)
>> Aperture Guide:
>> 1 washer= f/3.33
>> 2 washers= f/7.9
>> 3 washers= f/10.59
>> 4 washers= f/15.9
>> 5 washers= f/21.1
>> 6 washers= f/26.5
>> Article from "AfterImage" about pinhole filmmaking:
>> Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.