Re: Eiki projector tip

From: Andy Ditzler (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Oct 13 2007 - 13:34:08 PDT

The problem with the rubber strip on the Eiki focus knob assembly is
common; over the last year I've seen it on three different projectors
which I use. For the time being, replacements for the focus knob
assemblies can be easily ordered from KMR Electronics, 2413 S. Broadway,
Santa Ana, CA 92707-3251. Phone: (714) 979-0400. As I understand, KMR
purchased all the remaining Eiki parts. The focus
knob assemblies run about $25 each, with shipping. When I last ordered
from them, their minimum purchase amount for credit card was $40. If
ordering less than that, you can write a check.

You'll need to determine the part number, which varies depending on
whether you have an SSL, SSL-O, or other model.

What you replace on the projector is the entire focus knob (which comes
with the rubber strip already on it). It's quite easy to replace this
part and only requires the correct size screwdrivers. Still, once these
parts are no longer available, David's solution will be especially
valuable - thanks for posting it, David.

I had to go through a screening focusing the lens by hand and don't
recommend it. For one thing, the rubber helps hold the lens in place, so
once the rubber goes out, the lens has too much play and can go out of
focus easily.

Andy Ditzler
Atlanta, GA

----- Original Message -----
From: "owen" <email suppressed>
To: <email suppressed>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: Eiki projector tip

> or just use your fingers to turn the lens to focus.
> On Oct 13, 2007, at 2:08 PM, David Tetzlaff wrote:
>> Eiki 'Slim Line' 16mm projectors (and perhaps other models as well)
>> adjust
>> focus by means of a knob with a rubber collar on the end of its
>> shaft that
>> engages ribs on the lens barrel.
>> The problem with this is over time, the rubber perishes and ceases
>> to grab
>> the ribs. In some cases is gets brittle and cracks. More often it
>> seems to
>> liquify and turn into a sort of goo. This is dangerous. I am now
>> convinced
>> that just such a piece of goo migrated from the lens into the gate
>> and
>> destroyed a valuable print I projected a couple years ago.
>> I have come up with a method to repair this problem, which takes no
>> special skill, so i thought I'd share.
>> 1. Remove the plastic cover over the lens housing, It just pulls
>> off from
>> the top.
>> 2. Remove the lens housing: three small Phillips head screws, one
>> on top
>> two on bottom.
>> 3. Remove the small screw in the rear slot holding the lens in the
>> housing
>> and remove the lens.
>> 4. On the bottom of the lens housing is a metal bracket attached by
>> two
>> very small Phillips head screws. Back these screws out, but do not
>> totally
>> remove them. The focus knob will now slide out of the housing.
>> 5. Remove whats left of the old collar and clean up any residue on
>> the
>> knob, inside the housing, or on the lens barrel.
>> 6. Obtain some large heat shrink tubing for 14/16 gauge wire and
>> 10/12
>> gauge wire. I used a package from harbor Freight Tools, catalog
>> 96024-1VGA, if they don't have a store in
>> your area.
>> 7. Cut two pieces of the smaller tubing to the length of the
>> collar, and
>> also two pieces of the larger tubing.
>> 8. Slide a pice of the smaller tubing (red if its Harbor Freight)
>> onto the
>> end of the focus shaft as far as it will go. Heat it with a kitchen
>> match
>> or range burner from an inch or so away until it shrinks tight onto
>> the
>> shaft.
>> 9. Let it cool, then add another layer of the same size tubing
>> (red). It
>> should fit over the first layer after that one has shrunk. Again,
>> heat to
>> shrink.
>> 10. Add two more layers using the larger (black from Harbor Freight)
>> tubing, again shrinking with heat.
>> 11. This should build out your new plastic collar to just about the
>> diameter of the wider part of the shaft
>> 12. Reinsert the shaft into the lens housing. Line up the slots in
>> the
>> shaft with the two small Phillips screws you losened earlier. Tighten
>> these screws, making sure they go into the slots and do not bind the
>> shaft. The shaft should rotate freely when you turn the knob.
>> 13. put the lens back in the housing. Hopefully your new collar will
>> engage the ribs and rotating the knob will move the lens back and
>> forth.
>> 14. Reassemble the lens housing in reverse of the disassembly above.
>> Hope this helps somebody somewhere keep a projector in service.
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.
> __________________________________________________________________
> For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.

For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.