From: Steven Budden (email suppressed)
Date: Mon Mar 27 2006 - 19:53:35 PST
Awesome. Thanks for the information. I'll add your paper to my ever
thickening wad of film processing literature. It certainly looks like it will be the
one of the more condensed and useful chapters.
Since I already have a T Max kit (permanganate), I'll try it on my less
critical rolls (since it was $44, it can't escape being used somehow).
I was using a Lomo tank previously for black and white negative, but the
results were actually more uniform that what I was looking for. Going through
the tedium of hand processing, I'd like to at least get the hand processed look.
I do like the look of the 'primordial soup' bucket method but doesn't it
take a at least a gallon of chemicals to even do 50 feet of 16mm? Plus it sounds
like most of the bleach fumes would be rising out of the buckets into the air
of my bathroom.
By double strength bleach you mean twice the Dichromate and Sulfuric acid as
the regular R-9?
Also, anyone have any advice for the Fomapan with the G3? I know it
generally takes longer.
In a message dated 3/25/2006 12:40:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
email suppressed writes:
First, let me say I'm not a fan of the G-3 rewind tank--it is tedious as
heck to use and results tend to be very unpredictable. I would personally just
as soon wad the film up and swish it around in a bucket as use a G-3. However,
if you really want to use this tank I suggest using fresh chemistry for
every batch, or at least every few films. I have also heard that it helps to mix
your dichromate bleach at double strength. Do not use permanganate based
bleach in this tank at all--it will not work.
Below is a processing paper I wrote a while back which includes a special
section with instructions if using a rewind tank. Please note that I am just
an amateur and offer no guarantees regarding any of these processes
whatsoever, but I hope it can be of some help:
For info on FrameWorks, contact Pip Chodorov at <email suppressed>.