From: 40 Frames Directory (email suppressed)
Date: Sat Mar 05 2005 - 15:19:12 PST
Agree with the looping methods for determining source of scratch and
testing. Black leader is usually what I'll use, and occassionally expired
stocks.
Cleaning - medical swabs (no lint problems) w/ Naptha which also works
well on rubber-style rollers found on the Elmo CL-16 projector.
Isopropanyl tends to dissolve the rubber material. Most all camera service
shops use Naptha to clean. When I worked at an Arri rental house that is
what we used to clean delicate parts.
I too will clean the entire film path before a show and the gate after
each print. Photoguard prints the best as they do not shed emulsion/base
material in the gate.
Projectors - I second Dominic's comments on Pageant and Graflex projectors
(assuming you mean the model 920 manual loader). The one thing about the
Graflex machine is that they're in rare supply at this point, whereas the
Pageant is widely available even though not easy to service.
Eiki SSL can be finicky with splices if the loop setting is off, otherwise
they can be just fine with spliced prints. I project work print all the
time on my SSL w/o trouble. The Elmo CL-16 I avoid due to a bad design of
the optical sound film path. If emulsion is allowed to build up on the
optical sound head it can scrath the print.
Older model Eikis (ST and RT series) should be avoided and I usually steer
clean from the NT and SNT series, though not really from experience I just
don't like the auto threaders. But I know of number of collectors who
maintain their SNT projectors and experience no problems with this model.
Hokushin SC-210 projectors are very easy on film. The projectors are
however not the easiest to service, and last I check Rangertone in New
Jersey was one of the last places that serviced and supplied parts for
these machines. Their website is no longer up, so I don't know if they're
even open at this point.
Regards,
Alain LeTourneau
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